Antique Tiffany & Co. Geneva 18K Gold Pocket Watch
05 April 2019
Description

Main engraved number is 13599. The are other numbers etched by hand (#6513, #8770, #12914, #17919, #9686, #2523, #1845 - I don't understand what these mean. Original box by W.D. Webb Inc Jewelers Greenwich Connecticut Likely 1920/30s based on my grandfathers' age and other watches Fast Slow. Twister piece at the top extends up. Weight 3.63 oz. Not operation currently. Has crack on watch face. Glass enclosure is missing.

Provenance

Grandfather

Acquired from
Inherited
For sale
Maybe
Answered within about 2 hours
By David
Apr 05, 20:57 UTC
Fair Market Value
$750 - $900 USD
Insurance Value $0 USD
What does this mean?

Hello Sam,
Thank you for sending in your Tiffany & Company gold pocket watch to mearto for an appraisal. I hope to be of help to you today.
TITLE:
Gent’s 18k gold, double hinged, keyless, manually pendant wound and pendant set, open face pocket watch, made in Switzerland and made for and retailed by Tiffany & Company, New York City, circa first quarter of the 20th century. Accompanied by jeweler’s box marked W.D. Webb, Greenwich, Ct. (established 1897).
DESCRIPTION:
CASE – Size not known but estimated to be approximately 40mm in diameter, this is a polished 18k gold, four leaf, plain unengraved covers. The interior of the covers is marked for “Tiffany & Company, Geneva, 18K”. The other markings scratched into the inner covers are made by repairmen, and they are numerous. There is a full fluted ball gilt pendant (the bow is missing) placed at the twelve. . .
Dial: White enamel dial with black radial Roman hour numerals, outer minute/seconds divisions divided into fifths of a second with red Arabic markers placed every five minutes along the edge of the dial. Sunken subsidiary seconds ring@6. The dial is marked Tiffany & Company, Geneva and the dial has an English-style steel spade hour hand and pointy baton minute hand. . .
Movement: An unsigned, three-quarter plate with single small finger bridge, jeweled (some in gold chatons), straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel Breguet balance spring and index regulator. The movement is signed Tiffany & Co., Geneva with movement no. 13599. (We cannot identify and date a Tiffany watch by its serial number, since it is the serial number of the company in Switzerland that made the movement.) . . .
Condition: Dial – Hairline fracture from the dial center to the five-minute marker, otherwise a very nice well-made dial. CASE – I am surprised by the lack of decoration on the outer case, very unusual to find a plain polished case made for Tiffany. MOVEMENT – This is the shape of movements that are said by many experts to be made by Tiffany in Geneva for tiffany jewelers in New York. Tiffany & Company only made watches in ‘Geneva for two-three years during the mid 1870s, and they certainly would not have used a full fluted ball pendant in those years, nor a three-quarter plate movement. So, my opinion is that Tiffany in NYC requested that some of their movements continue to read ‘Tiffany & Co. Geneva’ and used this as an advertising ploy to sell watches as if they were their own product. . .
This style of watch dates from the first quarter of the 20th century. Patek Philippe took over their Geneva factory and initially supplied movements to Tiffany in NYC. However, by 1900 many different sources of movements made in Switzerland came from multiple companies, some upper end and others less well known.
Therefore, we have a heavy 18k gold pocket watch made for Tiffany & Co by an unidentified Swiss watch firm in a rather plain case with multiple repair dates, non-functional, dial cracked (significant adverse impact on value), and an English style hour hand (just surprising to see). Comparing similar watches sold at auction I believe the fair market value in its current condition ranges between $750 and $900. In very fine condition this watch would sell for $1500-$2000. One must also consider the cost of repair and deduct it from the fair market value since it is unlikely to sell when broken.
I hope I have been of some help to you in understanding what you own. I do not think everyone in the watch world, even today, fully grasps the timing and form of all the variety of movements that bears the Tiffany name.
My best,
David

Sam hooker Apr 05, 21:52 UTC

Thanks David - does the gold metal component itself have value?

David Apr 05, 22:13 UTC

Hi Sam,
Yes. If you wish to sell the gold watch on the gold market. It has much less value if you sell the watch in the watch market where the professionals play. Generally, if you weigh a gold open face pocket watch and take 35% of the the total weight you will have the gold components, thus eliminating the dial and movement. For a hunting case pocket watch it is 40%. So the math is as follows:
Just remember that it is 18k gold so you first convert the total weight in grams.(1 gram = 0.03527396oz)
Convert that into ounces, multiply by .750 (18/24ths) to get the approximate amount of 24k pure gold in ounces. Multiply that by the daily rate of price per ounce which is roughly about $1300 per ounce. Then deduct 15%, a reasonable retailer fee when selling the watch for gold value. Then you will be close to a proper price... In the watch market the 'honest' retailers stay away from even bidding on watches with fractured dials because their clientele is not interested. It is a watch that you might try selling on E-Bay where a buyer who is not truly a retail person may be influenced to spend a bit more for the gold value and also may see a movement that has in the past been associated with manufacturing by the Tiffany Company and might stretch to spend even more. It's a tricky business.
best regards,
David

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