David

Mearto specialist

Hello Daniel, Thank you for sending in this pocket watch to mearto.com for an appraisal. You did not send me a photograph of the movement. TITLE: Gents, Art Nouveau, gold filled or plated, 40mm, savonette, pendant wound and pendant set, anti-magnetic hunting case pocket watch accompanied by white metal interconnected ringlet watch chain, dial signed Lucerne (interchangeable name with Carl Friedrich Bucherer, jeweler and retailer, originally of Luzern, who also made some watches at the beginning of his career in 1888), made for Bucherer retailers by an unknown Swiss watch firm, dating to the first quarter of the 20th century. DESCRIPTION: Case: 40mm in diameter (should not include the pendant and bow) or approximately 18 lignes. The outer covers are engine turned in a circular interlocking pattern and engraved as well. There is a suppressed ball fluted and shaped gilt push button pendant with embossed ovoid bow placed at the three position (savonette) opposite the case hinge. The main cover is engraved with a frog hidden in the bulrushes along the edge of a pond observing a large bird flying overhead, while the opposite cover shows the engine turned underlying design with engraved ‘Scrolls around the periphery of the cover and engraved in the center with golden foliage, all very much in the style of the art Nouveau era (Circa 1880-1915) which stressed the beauty of nature, fauna and flora. The oxidation of the underlying metal is shown on the outer cover with the frog where some of the gold is now turning into a white metal and gilt covering is gone. This is confirmed by seeing the inside of the cover which has circular damascening but NO evidence of gold hallmarks. Dial: white patinated round dial with black enameled Breguet hour chapter ring, open bar minute track, steel ‘Antique Breguet” hands with a sweep center seconds pointer. The dial is marked “Lucerne, 17 jewels, antimagnetic, Swiss made”. Movement: Unfortunately, this is not shown by the client. Most likely either a bridge plate movement with a half plate and parallel finger bridges, or a split three-quarter plate movement with 17 jewels, exposed ratchet and crown wheels, bimetallic balance wheel with breguet hairspring, and Swiss style type of index regulator. The watch is said to be an automatic pocket watch which runs properly and is perhaps even self winding. (I do not think they had self winding watches when this one was made but I am uncertain of that. ) CONDITION: Case – some evidence of oxidation of the underlying gold filled or plated white metal, but appealing and in very nice condition. Dial – Excellent. Movement – Not evaluated, but I will make the extraordinary assumption that the movement is genuine and original to this case and is functional. Overall, in very good condition. COMMENTARY: In understanding the use of the name of the hometown it is important to note some of its history as depicted on the Carl Bucherer website. “Carl F. Bucherer is one of the few Swiss watch manufacturers that is still owned by its founding family. The Carl F. Bucherer brand is deeply rooted in the cosmopolitan spirit of Lucerne, and this is reflected in powerful brand imagery, with images in minimalistic gold that tell the brand’s success story set against the baroque heritage of its hometown. This has been the setting for the creation of Carl F. Bucherer’s luxurious products and sophisticated designs for 130 years. The claim “Made of Lucerne” perfectly captures the essence of the brand, which epitomizes the finest Swiss watchmaking expertise with exquisite design and groundbreaking technological innovation. Back in 1888, Swiss entrepreneur and visionary Carl Friedrich Bucherer dared to dream and opened his first specialty shop for watches and jewelry in Lucerne. Now the eponymous company has redefined its brand identity and passes another milestone in its almost 130-year history.” With its latest boutique, the Swiss watch manufacturer offers visitors a new way to experience the world of Carl F. Bucherer. The interior exudes understated luxury, accentuated by the golden elements of the brand logo, launched in 2016, and the distinctive brand imagery that also reflects the cosmopolitan nature of the city of Lucerne. COMPARABLES: ~https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/128103449_rolex-goldfilled-pocket-watch-made-for-c-bucherer-s (gold filled pocket watch was passed at auction in 2022 because it did not reach $1000) ~https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/126839189_bucherer-pocket-watch (Passed at $200 for this gold-filled pocket watch in 2022) ~https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/115485861_vintage-bucherer-turquoise-inlaid-pocket-watch (sold for $150 in 2021) ~https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/104815250_bucherer-gold-tone-metal-vintage-pocket-watch-17-jewels (passed in 2021 for failing to reach minimum of $500.) ~https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/91109448_vintage-bucherer-ornate-pendant-pocket-watch-working (sold for $39 in 2020) ~https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/75797505_bucherer-renaissance-pictured-pocket-watch-with-fab (sold for $175 in 2019) ~https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/46417321_ladies-enameled-17j-bucherer-pocket-watch (sold for $80 in 2016) ~https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/45674466_bucherer-equestrian-pocket-watch (sold for $125 in 2016) PRICING: Similar watches by other companies were made during the latter part of the Art Nouveau era and the onset of WW II. Most that carry either the Lucerne name or the Bucherer name are made by other companies, and eventually by the top-of-the-line companies such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, but not at this early stage of the business. Carl Bucherer has a special relationship with Rolex which soon began to make watches for this important retailer. I very much like the cover with the chased design of the frog and the bird with the bulrushes. The fair market value of this watch would fall into the $200-$250 range with retail prices about 2-2.5 times that value. Thank you for choosing mearto.com for this appraisal. My best, David